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Introduction
This page contains an extract from the Buffer Amplifier
Assembly and Operating Manual describing my approach to surface mount work. I'm
a relative beginner with surface mount components and this page describes what
I've found to work for me. If you have a different methodology that works for
you, don't feel that you need to change it to mach my preferences.
3.2 Working with Surface Mount Components
If you are unfamiliar with
installing surface mount components, you should review this section of the
Assembly Manual. The surface mount components in this kit are considered “large”
by industry standards, and should not represent difficulty if you have prior kit
assembly experience, either surface mount or through-hole.
3.2.1 Tools
I use the following tools in
assembling surface mount printed circuit boards:
|
Tool |
Comments |
Approximate Cost |
Source |
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I use curved nose
forceps to hold parts while soldering. I prefer the pattern 7-SA forceps
with gently curved tips, but the angular pattern 6-SA may be preferred by
some. These are by Technik and are non-magnetic stainless steel. |
$9.00 each |
MSC part number:
7-SA pattern:
88348099
6-SA pattern: 88348081 |
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I find clip-on
magnifiers essential to view small parts. I keep both 1.75 x and 3.5 x
magnification types at hand.
The 3.5 x magnifiers
have a working distance of 4”, so it gets you “up close and personal” with
the parts! (I’m not a fan of the headband style magnifiers, but personal
tastes differ in this regard.)
Of course, if you
don’t wear glasses, a different style magnifier will be in order. |
$20 each |
MSC part numbers:
1.75X: 06533202
3.5X: 06533236 |
|
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Small diameter solder
is essential. I use either 0.015” diameter or 0.022” diameter solder. If you
can find it, I find solder with a slight amount of silver (3% typically)
produces a better appearing joint.
My 0.015” solder is
Kester “44 rosin, 63/37 eutectic mixture. My 0.022” solder is (believe it or
not) Radio Shack 62/36/2, with 2% silver. |
$15 for ½ pound
Kester |
Mouser part number
533-23-6337-07 |
|
 |
If the pad being
soldered to is at all tarnished, a touch of solder flux will clean it up.
Some like to use flux regardless of pad condition. I prefer a pen-type
dispenser. |
$4 |
Mouser part number:
533-0951 |
|
 |
Solder wick can’t be
beat for cleaning up unwanted solder, or for removing solder from a pad
after a part is changed. For small surface mount parts, I like narrow solder
wick, 0.025 to 0.030.” |
$2.50 |
Mouser part number:
5878-80-1-5 |
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Finally, you need
something to hold the PCB in place whilst you work on it.
I use a Panavise
#301 (with nylon jaws) for small boards and a Panavise #324 board holder for
larger projects. |
$85 for the PCB
holder
$45 for the standard
Panavise |
#324 PCB Holder is
Mouser PN:
591-324
#301
Standard Panavise is Mouser PN: 591-301 |
|
Mouser:
http://www.mouser.com/ (excellent line of electronic parts and no
minimum order size)
MSC:
http://www1.mscdirect.com/ (Tools of variety almost unimaginable and
it’s all in stock. No minimum order, prices may be a bit on the high side,
but I’ve never bought a tool from them that I’ve been disappointed in. Their
customer service is among the best I’ve seen.)
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The tool not to
use—self-closing forceps. These tools are quite useful for many purposes
around the electronics workbench, but when it comes to holding surface mount
parts, I’ve found them to excel at being “parts launchers” with the ability
to shoot a small surface mount component across the room in an instant. |
 |
|
This tools list assumes you
have a suitable soldering iron. I use an old Weller TC202 soldering station
with a TC201 42 watt iron. For integrated circuits such as U801/U901, I use
a 0.032” diameter long taper conical tip. For larger surface mount and
through-hole parts, I use an 1/8” chisel tip. My experience is that a lower
power soldering iron isn’t adequate, and one of much greater power is too
much. Whether this is a true Goldilocks optimum or just my personal
preference remains to be determined.
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3.2.2 Installing Surface
Mount Components
3.2.2.1 Integrated Circuits
U801/U901 is a reasonably
easy to install surface mount IC, if you have the correct tools and follow a
few simple steps.
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-
The idea
is to hold the IC in place by soldering two diagonal corners in place and
then solder the remaining pins. Start by applying a sparing amount
of solder on one of the corner pads. Then apply a similar amount of solder
to the diagonal corner pad. Place the IC on the PCB, correctly oriented,
with pins centered on the pads. While holding the IC in place, touch the
soldering iron to the first tinned pad, tacking the IC’s pin in place. The
small figure shows an AD8007 after the diagonal pins have been tack
soldered in place. Note how the pins are centered over the PCB pads.
|
 |
-
Check
the orientation of the IC, verifying that it is properly centered over the
pads. If you don’t get this right now, it will be far more difficult to
correct when the second pin is soldered in place. When you are satisfied
that the IC is centered on its pads, touch the other diagonal tinned pad
with your soldering iron.
|
 |
-
Double
check that the IC has not shifted during the earlier steps and that the
IC’s pins are centered on their respective pads. Then solder the remaining
pins to their pads. Depending on how the PCB was constructed, it may have
sufficient solder plating so that additional solder is unnecessary—simply
touching the soldering iron to the pin and pad flows enough solder to form
a reliable joint. If this isn’t possible with your PCB, then apply a
small amount of solder to form the joint.
|
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-
After
each time you touch the solder to the soldering iron, check the end of the
solder for a blob or ball. If you find the solder has formed a ball, cut
it off at an angle to form a pointed end. Otherwise, it will be difficult
to control the amount of solder deposited.
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3.2.2.2 Passive Components
To install a passive
component, use a similar approach:
-
Lightly
tin one pad.
-
With
angled forceps (or your favorite tool) hold the part in place and solder
the part to the tinned pad with a light touch of the soldering iron. This
will anchor the part in place. Notice how nicely Technik pattern 7A
forceps hold the part in place without obscuring vision or blocking the
soldering iron.
-
Solder
the remaining pad(s). If necessary rework the first pad connection.
It does not take a lot of
solder to properly attach a surface mount component. A correctly installed
part will be flush against the board and have a small filet at the end caps.
If the
part is to be installed on one grounded pad and one ungrounded pad, it is
easiest to solder it to the ungrounded pad first.
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3.2.3 Removing Defective
Parts
In almost every instance,
trying to salvage a surface mount part installed wrong is a waste of time. A
1% 1206 size surface mount resistor, for example, costs about 2 cents in 100
lots. It’s much easer to use a pair of dykes and cut the part in half. Then
use solder wick to remove the two halves. Clean up the pads with additional
applications of solder wick.
To remove a multi-pin IC, a
similar approach can be used—carefully cut the part into pieces with dykes,
exercising care to avoid damaging traces or the PCB. A hot air gun can also
be used to simultaneously liquefy the solder at all IC pins. The IC can then
be lifted free of the PCB. Care must be taken, of course, to avoid damaging
nearby parts with the heat gun.
An alternative IC removal
approach is ChipQuik (DigiKey PN SMD1-ND, approximate price $15). ChipQuik’s
kit includes special flux and a low temperature melting point solder that
mixes with the normal solder and allows the chip to be removed without
extensive heating.
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